Comparing Electric Bike Drivetrains: Hub vs Mid-Drive
Best electric bike drivetrains for commuting
1. Mid-Drive Motor Drivetrains
- Why Best for Commuting: Mid-drive motors offer the most efficient use of battery power by taking advantage of the bike’s gears, providing smoother power delivery and better handling on hills and varied terrain. They also balance the weight distribution well for a more natural ride feel.
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Examples:
- Bosch Active Line Plus: Ideal for city commuting with smooth pedal assist and quiet operation.
- Shimano STEPS E6100: Reliable and lightweight, designed for urban commuting with efficient power use and easy gear shifting.
- Yamaha PWseries: Known for smooth power delivery and strong performance in urban environments.
2. Hub-Drive Motor Drivetrains (Rear Hub)
- Why Best for Commuting: Rear hub motors are simple and require less maintenance than mid-drive systems. They offer a powerful, direct feel, making them ideal for flat or moderately hilly commutes. They are also more affordable.
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Examples:
- Bafang Hub Motors: Reliable, widely used hub motors that offer smooth acceleration and good power for city riding.
- Rad Power Bikes Hub Motors: Found on popular commuting e-bikes, these hub motors are efficient and offer solid power for daily commuting.
3. Belt Drive Systems with Internal Geared Hubs
- Why Best for Commuting: Belt drives paired with internally geared hubs, such as the Gates Carbon Drive system, are low-maintenance, quiet, and durable. They are ideal for commuters who want a clean, smooth, and hassle-free drivetrain.
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Examples:
- Gates Carbon Drive with Shimano Nexus or Rohloff Hubs: These systems are known for their long-lasting performance, smooth shifting, and minimal maintenance, perfect for daily commutes.
4. Enviolo CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission)
- Why Best for Commuting: The Enviolo CVT drivetrain offers seamless, stepless shifting, making it ideal for urban environments. It provides a smooth ride without the need for manual gear changes, which is great for stop-and-go city traffic.
Hub drive vs mid-drive e-bike drivetrain
Aspect | Hub-Drive | Mid-Drive |
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Motor Placement | In the wheel hub (front or rear) | Near the bottom bracket, powering the crankset |
Power Delivery | Direct, less natural | Smooth, integrated with gears |
Terrain Performance | Best for flat/moderate terrain | Ideal for steep hills and varied terrain |
Efficiency | Less efficient on hills | More efficient, especially on hills |
Weight Distribution | Less balanced (weight in one wheel) | Better balance, low center of gravity |
Maintenance | Low, less drivetrain wear | Higher, more drivetrain wear |
Cost | More affordable | Typically more expensive |
Ride Feel | Immediate but less natural | Natural, smooth pedaling feel |
Which is more efficient: mid-drive or hub-drive ebike
Use of Bike’s Gears:- Mid-Drive: The motor works with the bike’s gears, allowing you to shift to lower gears for hills and higher gears for flat terrain. This means the motor can run more efficiently because it adapts to the rider’s pedaling and the terrain.
- Hub-Drive: The motor operates independently of the gears, which means it can't take advantage of gear changes to optimize power delivery. This can result in reduced efficiency, particularly on hills or varied terrain.
- Mid-Drive: Because it can use the gears to optimize power output, mid-drive systems generally consume less battery power, especially when climbing hills or riding on uneven terrain.
- Hub-Drive: Hub motors tend to draw more power from the battery when under strain (such as when climbing hills), leading to faster battery drain.
- Mid-Drive: Provides more torque and better climbing ability by working through the bike's drivetrain, making it much more efficient on steep inclines.
- Hub-Drive: Typically struggles on hills because it doesn’t use the bike’s gears, resulting in reduced efficiency and performance on inclines.
- Mid-Drive: Has a central, low placement (near the bottom bracket), improving balance and handling, which contributes to better efficiency during rides, especially over long distances.
- Hub-Drive: Concentrates the weight in the rear or front wheel, which can affect handling and balance, particularly on varied terrain.
- Mid-Drive: Experiences less strain because the motor works more efficiently with the bike’s drivetrain, meaning it can operate at lower speeds without overworking.
- Hub-Drive: Experiences more strain when tackling inclines or rough terrain since it has to provide more power without gear assistance.
How to choose the right drivetrain for your electric bicycle
Determine Your Riding Terrain:-
Flat Terrain & Urban Commuting:
- Hub-Drive Drivetrain: Ideal for flat or moderately hilly areas. Hub-drive systems (especially rear hub) provide reliable, low-maintenance power for city streets and bike paths.
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Hilly Terrain & Off-Road:
- Mid-Drive Drivetrain: Offers better torque and efficiency, especially for climbing steep hills and riding on varied terrain. The motor works with the bike’s gears, providing better power delivery.
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Casual or Recreational Rider:
- Hub-Drive: If you’re riding mostly on flat terrain or for leisure, a hub-drive motor is typically sufficient. It’s more affordable and requires less drivetrain maintenance.
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Performance-Oriented Rider:
- Mid-Drive: If you prioritize performance and want better handling and power efficiency, especially on long or demanding rides, a mid-drive system is the better choice.
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Long Rides & Battery Efficiency:
- Mid-Drive: More efficient in terms of battery usage, particularly on long rides and varied terrain, as it works with the gears to optimize power.
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Short Commutes:
- Hub-Drive: Suitable for shorter commutes or flat routes where efficiency is less critical.
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Low-Maintenance:
- Hub-Drive: Hub motors have fewer moving parts in the drivetrain and are generally more durable with less need for regular maintenance.
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High Performance, More Maintenance:
- Mid-Drive: These motors put more strain on the chain and cassette, leading to faster wear. However, they offer better performance in exchange for more frequent maintenance.
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Affordable Option:
- Hub-Drive: More budget-friendly and offers good value for money, especially for casual riders or commuters on flat terrain.
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Premium Option:
- Mid-Drive: Typically more expensive but worth the investment for those seeking better efficiency, climbing power, and a more natural ride feel.
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Balanced Weight:
- Mid-Drive: Provides better weight distribution by placing the motor at the center of the bike, resulting in improved handling and a more natural ride feel.
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Weight Concentrated on One Wheel:
- Hub-Drive: Adds weight to the front or rear wheel, which can affect handling, particularly on uneven terrain or steep climbs.
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More Control with Gears:
- Mid-Drive: Works with the bike’s drivetrain, allowing for more efficient gear shifting, better torque on hills, and smoother acceleration.
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Simpler Setup:
- Hub-Drive: Doesn’t rely on gear changes for motor efficiency, making it simpler for riders who don’t need to worry about shifting to optimize motor performance.
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Quieter Operation:
- Hub-Drive: Generally quieter as the motor is in the wheel hub and isolated from the drivetrain.
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Natural Pedal Feel:
- Mid-Drive: Offers a more natural ride feel as it integrates better with the rider’s pedaling motion.
- Belt Drive and Internal Geared Hub: If you want a low-maintenance, quiet, and clean option, consider a belt drive with an internal geared hub. These systems are often paired with mid-drive motors for a hassle-free experience.
E-bike drivetrain comparisons: Bosch vs Shimano vs Bafang
Feature | Bosch | Shimano | Bafang |
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Motor Type | Primarily mid-drive motors | Primarily mid-drive (STEPS) | Both mid-drive and hub-drive motors |
Popular Models | Active Line, Performance Line, Cargo Line | Shimano STEPS E6100, STEPS E8000 | Bafang M-Series (mid-drive), Hub motors |
Torque Output | High torque (up to 85 Nm) | Moderate to high torque (up to 85 Nm) | Wide range (up to 160 Nm for some models) |
Power Output | 250W – 500W, depending on the model | 250W – 500W | 250W – 1000W (hub motors can go higher) |
Battery Integration | Integrated with Bosch PowerTube/PowerPack | Integrated with Shimano batteries | Supports various battery options |
Range | 50–120 km (depending on battery and conditions) | 50–120 km | 50–150 km (depending on battery and motor) |
Weight Distribution | Mid-drive placement, well-balanced | Mid-drive, centered weight | Mid-drive for balance, hub-drive may affect handling |
Motor Efficiency | Very efficient, especially on hills | Efficient, smooth power delivery | Efficient, but hub motors less so on hills |
Display & Controls | Intuvia, Purion, Kiox, and Nyon displays with smartphone connectivity | Shimano display systems, customizable | Wide range of displays, including LCD options |
Terrain Performance | Excellent for hills and varied terrain | Great for urban and trail use | Great for flat and moderate terrain (hub); strong for mid-drive on hills |
Ease of Maintenance | High-quality, low maintenance, but parts are proprietary | Low maintenance, parts accessible | Moderate maintenance, widely available parts |
Customization Options | Limited; Bosch systems are proprietary | Some customizations with Shimano components | Highly customizable, especially with Bafang hub motors |
Noise Level | Generally quiet, especially newer models | Quiet operation | Mid-drive: quiet; hub-drive: slightly noisier |
Cost | Higher-end, premium pricing | Mid-range to high | More affordable, especially hub-drive systems |
Target User | Performance riders, commuters, cargo e-bikes | Commuters, off-road riders, e-MTB enthusiasts | Budget-conscious riders, DIY builders, and commuters |
Warranty and Support | Excellent warranty and global support | Strong global support | Good support but varies by manufacturer |
Can I convert a traditional bike to electric with a drivetrain
Yes, you can. Just follow this steps:
1) Choose the Right Kit:
- Decide whether you want a hub-drive or mid-drive kit based on your terrain and performance needs.
- Ensure the kit is compatible with your bike’s frame size, wheel size, and drivetrain.
2) Install the Motor:
- Hub-Drive: Replace your bike’s front or rear wheel with the motorized hub wheel.
- Mid-Drive: Remove the bottom bracket and crankset, and install the mid-drive motor in the bottom bracket
3) Install the Battery:
- Attach the battery to the frame, rear rack, or seat post using the provided hardware.
4) Install the Controller and Display:
- Mount the controller and display on the handlebars to control motor assistance and monitor the battery.
5) Connect the Wiring:
- Connect the motor, battery, controller, and pedal-assist sensor. Ensure all connections are secure.
6) Test the System:
- Once everything is installed, test the system by turning it on and riding the bike. Adjust settings as needed.
Drivetrain efficiency in electric mountain bikes vs electric city bikes
Electric Mountain Bikes (e-MTBs):
- Typically use mid-drive motors for better efficiency on steep, rugged terrain.
- The drivetrain leverages gears to optimize power, especially for climbing.
- More torque and higher wear on components due to demanding off-road conditions.
Electric City Bikes:
- Often use hub-drive motors, which are simpler and efficient on flat, urban terrain.
- Drivetrain efficiency is good for commuting, but hub motors can struggle on steep hills.
- Less drivetrain wear due to lower torque demands and smoother riding conditions.
How much does an electric cycle drivetrain upgrade cost
Hub-Drive Conversion Kit Upgrade:- Cost: $300 – $800
- What’s Included: A hub motor (either front or rear), battery, controller, throttle, pedal-assist system (PAS), and sometimes a display.
- Additional Costs: Installation can be DIY or may cost $50 – $150 if done by a professional.
- Best For: Riders on flat terrain or commuters looking for an affordable, low-maintenance electric upgrade.
- Cost: $500 – $1,500
- What’s Included: A mid-drive motor, battery, controller, PAS, and display. Mid-drive kits integrate with the bike's gears for better performance on hills and off-road terrain.
- Additional Costs: Professional installation can cost $100 – $200.
- Best For: Performance-oriented riders or those in hilly areas needing more torque and efficient power delivery.
- Cost: $200 – $600
- What’s Included: A carbon belt drive (such as Gates Carbon Drive) and a compatible internally geared hub (e.g., Shimano Nexus or Rohloff).
- Additional Costs: Installation and gear hub adjustments could add $100 – $200.
- Best For: Riders seeking a low-maintenance, durable, and quiet drivetrain solution.
- Cost: $300 – $900 (depending on capacity and brand)
- What’s Included: Higher-capacity or replacement battery to extend range or match a new motor system.
- Best For: Riders who want to extend the range or match power output to a new motor.
- Cost: $100 – $300
- What’s Included: Upgrading to higher-quality chains, cassettes, or derailleurs for better shifting and durability.
- Best For: Riders upgrading a mid-drive motor system that puts extra strain on the chain and gears.
Electric bike drivetrain brands: Which is most reliable
Brand | Reliability | Best For | Pros | Cons |
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Bosch | Top-tier reliability | Commuters, performance riders, e-MTBs | High torque, excellent support, premium quality | High cost, proprietary components |
Shimano | Very reliable | Urban riders, e-MTBs | Smooth integration with Shimano components | Less torque than Bosch, limited high-end options |
Bafang | Moderate to high | Budget-conscious, DIY riders | Affordable, customizable, powerful motors | Variable quality, more maintenance |
Brose | Highly reliable | Premium riders, high-performance e-bikes | Quiet, lightweight, high torque | Expensive, fewer models available |
Yamaha | Reliable | Performance riders, e-MTBs | Strong torque, good warranty, durable | Less common than Bosch or Shimano |
E-bike drivetrain troubleshooting: common issues and fixes
Skipping Gears
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Common Causes:
- Misaligned derailleur.
- Worn chain or cassette.
- Poor cable tension.
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Fix:
- Adjust the derailleur: Check for proper alignment and adjust the high/low limit screws.
- Check the chain and cassette: Replace if worn or stretched.
- Adjust cable tension: Use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the tension.
Chain Slipping Off
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Common Causes:
- Bent derailleur hanger.
- Misadjusted high/low limit screws.
- Worn or stretched chain.
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Fix:
- Align the derailleur hanger: Use a derailleur alignment tool.
- Adjust the limit screws: Make sure the derailleur can’t overshoot the cassette.
- Replace the chain: If the chain is worn, replace it to prevent slippage.
Poor Shifting
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Common Causes:
- Dirty drivetrain components.
- Stretched or frayed cables.
- Chain or cassette wear.
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Fix:
- Clean and lubricate the drivetrain: Remove dirt and debris from the chain, cassette, and derailleur.
- Replace cables: If cables are frayed or stretched, replace them for smoother shifting.
- Inspect chain and cassette: Replace any worn parts.
Noisy Drivetrain
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Common Causes:
- Lack of lubrication.
- Misaligned derailleur.
- Worn chain or cassette.
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Fix:
- Lubricate the chain: Use e-bike-specific chain lubricant.
- Align the derailleur: Check for misalignment and adjust.
- Inspect for wear: Replace the chain or cassette if noise persists after cleaning and lubing.
Motor Strain or Unresponsive Pedal Assist
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Common Causes:
- Misaligned sensors (torque or cadence).
- Faulty connections between motor and battery.
- Worn chain or cassette.
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Fix:
- Check the sensors: Make sure the torque or cadence sensors are properly aligned and clean.
- Check wiring and connectors: Ensure there are no loose or damaged connections.
- Replace drivetrain components: A worn chain or cassette can cause the motor to work harder than needed.
Chain Drops During Shifting
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Common Causes:
- Improper derailleur adjustment.
- Chainline issues.
- Worn or damaged chainring teeth.
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Fix:
- Adjust the derailleur limit screws: Fine-tune the derailleur to prevent chain drop.
- Check chainline: Ensure the chainline is straight and aligned.
- Replace chainring: If teeth are worn or damaged, replace the chainring.
Battery Draining Quickly
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Common Causes:
- Poor gear usage (especially with hub-drive motors).
- Overworked motor due to drivetrain issues (worn chain or cassette).
- Faulty battery or connections.
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Fix:
- Shift to appropriate gears: For mid-drive motors, use the bike's gears efficiently to reduce motor strain.
- Inspect drivetrain for wear: Replace worn components to reduce motor load.
- Check the battery and connections: Make sure the battery is functioning properly and is securely connected.
Motor Cutting Out During Ride
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Common Causes:
- Loose motor or battery connections.
- Sensor misalignment.
- Damaged or worn drivetrain components affecting motor response.
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Fix:
- Check all connections: Ensure that the motor and battery connections are secure.
- Realign sensors: Make sure the cadence or torque sensors are properly positioned.
- Inspect drivetrain components: Replace worn components to ensure smooth motor operation.
Pedal Assist Not Engaging
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Common Causes:
- Faulty or misaligned pedal-assist sensor.
- Loose or broken wires.
- Worn drivetrain components causing poor sensor readings.
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Fix:
- Inspect the pedal-assist sensor: Ensure the sensor is correctly aligned with the crank and functioning properly.
- Check wiring: Look for any loose or damaged wires.
- Replace worn drivetrain parts: A worn chain or cassette can interfere with the pedal-assist function.
No Power to the Motor
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Common Causes:
- Battery not connected or faulty.
- Controller issues.
- Drivetrain strain due to mechanical issues.
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Fix:
- Check the battery: Ensure the battery is charged and properly connected.
- Inspect the controller: Reset or replace the controller if needed.
- Service drivetrain: Fix any drivetrain issues to reduce motor strain.